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Cashmere Goats and their Fiber

Cashmere goats can serve a multitude of purposes:
They produce 3-4 ounces of fine, soft fiber a year which can be processed into wool for knitted garments
They are useful for clearing fence lines and undesirable weeds
Their pelts can be used for rugs and seat covers
Their meat is low in cholesterol

Their history:
Cashmere goats originally came from the Himalayas and migrated with Chinese herders to Mongolia, Tibet and Northern provinces of China in the 10th and 12th centuries.  With the development of the Asian empire, cashmere slowly began to enter the trade routes in the West. In the 13th century Marco Polo brought cashmere to Italy where it became the fiber of choice among the aristocratic elite.

Processing the fiber:
Our cashmere goats have a fine, downy undercoat which protects them from the cold winters, Each spring the fleeces are removed by either combing or shearing. A typical adult goat produces 3-4 oz. of pure down, enough for about 1/3 of a sweater.  The finest cashmere is harvested when the goat is 2-4 years old and after the age of five, the goat’s value is based on its ability to produce offspring.  Once the cashmere is combed off or sheared, the dirt, grass and other non-fiber contaminants must be removed.  The fiber is then sorted by fineness and length.  Coarse hairs are removed leaving behind the medium and long fine hairs.  The shortest cashmere hairs are extremely soft, but because they are so short they will pill if they are woven into clothing.  The fleece is then sorted by color which can be white, off white, tan, brown or grey.   The fleece is then washed, dried and spun into skeins of yarn or left as raw roving.  It takes approximately a year’s worth of wool from three to four goats in order to make a woman’s single ply cashmere sweater. Cashmere is eight times warmer than sheep’s wool and 33% lighter. Cashmere fiber has a crimp or curl that sheep’s wool does not have.  This extra crimp holds pockets of warm air close to the body.  It is the softest animal fiber readily available on the market measureable by its low micron count.  The micron count is the measure of the diameter of the fiber and the lower the number, the softer the fiber.  The finest cashmere has a micron count of 16 or less.

Un-dyed cashmere ranges in color from a snowy white to a chocolate brown with variations of brownish-grey.  White is the most valuable because it can readily accept dye.  However, the more dye that is used, the coarser it feels.  The naturally darker cashmere fibers will be dyed when trying to achieve a black, dark navy, charcoal or brown.  The natural white cashmere fibers will be bleached white and dyed into pastel colors.

Most cashmere sweaters have a label that says Dry Clean Only, but this is to remove liability should you incorrectly wash your cashmere and ruin it.  The quality of a cashmere item can actually improve if you wash it properly in cold water by hand or machine and dry without any heat. It is more expensive to hand knit a cashmere sweater than to buy one because the hand knitting yarn is much thicker than commercial yarn.  The cashmere sweater you buy in a store uses a much thinner commercial yarn which cannot be hand knit. The world produces 9,000-10,000 tons of cashmere each year.

50-60% comes from China (including Tibet and Inner Mongolia)
20-30% comes from Mongolia
10-20% comes from Iran and Afghanistan

Albino Squirrel

Only 10 in every one million squirrels are born with albinism, and have a very short life expectancy because they are easily seen by both predators and prey due to their obvious lack of camouflage.

What we normally think of when we think of squirrels are tree dwelling gray or reddish mammals. Rarely do we imagine their cousins, the ground squirrels (Prairie dogs) or marmots, even though they are in the same family. Nor do we think of squirrels as white! But, there are many places  that have white or albino squirrel populations.

Most squirrels are gray or red, an adaptation that allows them to blend in to the surrounding vegetation. Tree trunks are usually a dark color and the mottled gray color of the common forest squirrels. However, several towns across america have claimed to have a large population of white squirrels. How could this be if it is advantageous to blend in with the tree trunks to hide from predators?

This is a case of classic natural selection, the driving force behind evolutionary change. Evolution by definition is the changing of the genetic makeup of a population over time. The trait for being white is a genetic anomalie that is usually weeded out because they are so quickly seen by predators. But today we have a different predator: humans.

Many towns have proclaimed to be the "Home of the White Squirrels," and as a result have started trapping and removing their darker brothers and sisters. What a great example of natural selection that has quickly created a dominant squirrel population that is white.

However, there are other places around the country where white squirrels are popping up and it may not be a result of humans trapping the squirrels. Many places have white stone and white buildings of which white squirrels would be highly adapted too. This small advantage may allow white squirrel populations to spread.

Help Honey Bees Survive This Winter

Honeybees are far and away the most important pollinator in today’s agricultural landscape. They pollinate more than 400 crops worldwide, help to create about a third of the food we eat, and contribute an estimated $12 billion to our nation’s food supply.

 All summer long, worker bees can be seen buzzing between flowers, collecting pollen and nectar and, in the process, pollinating vast tracts of crops (upon which we depend) and producing an abundance of honey (some of which is ferried away by beekeepers to local markets for us to enjoy). As summer draws to a close and the weather starts to cool, one of the questions I get a lot is, “What happens to bees in the winter?”

 People often guess that honeybees hibernate; others presume that colonies die as cold weather approaches. Fall’s first frost does kill most members of bumblebee and yellow jacket colonies, leaving lonesome queens to establish new nests each spring.

But honeybees are different.
They’ve evolved a strategy for winter survival that is unique, one that relies heavily on frenzied visitation to flowers throughout the summer and a Herculean group effort in the months beyond. Believe it or not, their success in this endeavor depends on choices that you make for your yard and garden.
Honeybees need their calorie-rich, carbohydrate-loaded honey to keep them alive during the winter; it’s the perfect furnace oil for colonies. Worker bees eat this liquid gold and use the energy it provides to fuel rapid contraction of their wing muscles. Pumping these muscles without flying produces heat in the same way that shivering helps us to warm our own bodies.

As temperatures drop, honeybees cluster together within their hive to share the warmth that their honeybees to keep the inside of their home virtually tropical while the rest of the natural world remains frozen beyond the hive’s walls.

“shivering” generates (picture a ball of bees a foot in diameter and sliced through by sheets of honeycomb). At the core of this cluster, worker bees keep themselves and their queen at a temperature that is only a few degrees lower than that of a healthy human. The cluster’s outer layer consists of tightly packed, slightly cooler workers that insulate the core as effectively as bird feathers or mammalian fur—don’t worry, everyone gets to rotate. This remarkable group behavior allows
Here’s where we come in. Honeybees in temperate climates have only a limited window—about 60 days in total—to stockpile the food reserves that they will live off for the rest of the year. This means that we need to do everything we can to create an environment that lets bees succeed as pollinators when the going is good. Here are three ways you can help bees survive winter:

• Plant late bloomers. When it comes to enhancing your garden’s fall bloom, consider adding late-flowering plants like goldenrod and asters that are critical to a colony’s final push to bring home food for the winter.

• Avoid systemic pesticides. Certain pesticides have toxins that invade all plant tissues (instead of just living on the plants’ surface), and bees bring these chemicals to their nests when they collect nectar and pollen. A group of chemicals called nitroguanidine/neonicotinoids has been shown to contribute to colony collapse disorder.

• Encourage early-spring blooms. Spring brings welcome relief for honeybees with a chance to restock dwindling floral supplies. Flowering trees—willows, maples, and the like—provide some of the earliest opportunities for bees to forage, so try to encourage their toxin-free growth when you can.

How to Store Apples for Winter

Interested in storing a bushel of apples to enjoy over the cold winter months? Once you learn a few storage tricks, it's easy to do.

Here's How:

1. Start with apples that keep well. Late-ripening varieties (those harvested in October) usually do best. These include: Red Delicious, Ida Red, Winesap, Crispin, Stayman, Rome, Northern Spy and Turley.

2. Inspect all apples for bruises, cuts and soft spots. Only perfect fruit is suitable for storage.

3. Sort the apples by size: small, medium and large. Since large apples don't store as well, this will make it easy to ensure that they get eaten first.

4. Place the sorted apples in perforated plastic bags or in boxes lined with perforated plastic (to allow for air circulation).

5.Store in a cool basement, garage, fruit cellar or refrigerator. The ideal storage temperature is 30-32°F with 90% humidity. Apples are likely to suffer freeze damage if the temperature dips below 30° and will ripen quickly, if the temperature rises above 40°, so do your best to match these conditions.
Check regularly for signs of spoilage, and remove any damaged fruit.


Tips:

1. Pick apples when they are ripe. Over or under-ripened fruit will not store well.

2. Store apples as soon after picking as possible.

3. Avoid storing your apples near onion or potatoes. They'll readily absorb the flavor of other foods.

4. Don't mix apple varieties. Different varieties ripen at different rates.

5. Expect your apples to last up to five months in storage (depending on variety and storage conditions).

Tips For Growing Cucumbers

Cucumbers are great for pickling, tossing in salads, or eating straight off the vine.

Types of Cucumbers

There are two types of cucumbers: slicing and pickling. Each type comes in several different varieties. The slicing types are long and usually grow to about 6 or 8 inches in length while the pickling types are shorter, reaching around 3 to 4 inches once mature.

There are now many bush or compact varieties of cucumbers available that are ideal for growing in limited space.

Starting Cucumbers

Cucumbers can be started indoors in peat pots or small flats and transplanted to the garden a couple weeks thereafter but only when all danger of frost has passed. Before you move them to the garden, however, harden the cucumber plants off in a protected location to lessen any stress that may occur during transplanting. During cool periods, cucumbers can be covered with plant protectors as well.

Where to Plant Cucumbers

Cucumbers like warm, humid weather; loose, organic soil; and plenty of sunlight. They grow well in most regions of the United States and do especially well in the South.

When planting cucumbers, choose a site that has adequate drainage and fertile soil. Good soil will have plenty of organic matter, such as compost. Adding compost to the soil will help get your cucumbers off to a good start, and applying an organic fertilizer, such as manure, will help give the plants nutrients during growth. When you begin preparing the soil, remove any rocks, sticks or other debris and then mix ample amounts of organic matter and fertilizer into the soil.

Cucumbers may be planted in hills or rows about 1 inch deep and thinned as needed. Since cucumbers are a vine crop, they usually require a lot of space. In large gardens, cucumber vines may spread throughout rows; within smaller gardens, cucumbers may be trained for climbing on a fence or trellis. Training cucumbers on a fence or trellis will reduce space and lift the fruit off the soil. This method also can provide your garden with a neater appearance. The bush or compact varieties are quite suitable for growing in small spaces or even in containers.

Symptoms of a Sick Goat

In order to be able to recognize when a goat is sick, the owner must closely observe their herd when they are healthy. The average healthy goat is alert and curious. They show interest in food and chew their cud after feeding. Their eyes are bright and clear and their nose is dry. Their coat is shiny and clean and in good weather their tail is up. Their droppings are firm and pelleted and their gait is energetic and steady. They will have a temperature between 101.5 and 103.5, keeping the outside weather conditions in mind.

Through daily observation the goat owner will learn what is normal for the individuals in their herd and will be able to quickly spot a goat that just isn’t acting right, one that may be sick. Early assessment and action greatly increases the chances of a successful outcome to treatment.

Some warning signs of a goat that may be sick or need medical attention are:
A goat that separates itself from the rest of the herd.
Standing with its head and tail down, with a hunched back.
Trembling, muscle twitching or head shaking.
A goat that is anxious or weak, listless or reluctant to move.
Poor appetite, won't eat or won't drink.
Change in consistancy or color of feces, scouring (diarrhea) or tapeworm segments.
Strains to urinate, unable to urinate, or blood in the urine.
Fever (above 103.5) or subnormal temperature. (below 101.5)
Moans or cries.
Grinding teeth, signs of pain.
Bloated, kicking or biting at stomach.
Enlarged knees or recuring abscesses.
Rapid, shallow breathing.
Chronic cough or sweet smell to breath.
Cloudy or green nasal discharge.
Cloudy, watery, closed eyes or a discharge from them.
Dull, scruffy coat, sores, scabs or other skin problems.
Excessive rubbing, scratching or biting at lower legs.
Soft swelling under face (bottlejaw), white gums and inner eyelids.
Abnormal color or consistency of milk.
Hot, lumpy or hard udder.
Limping, tender "walking on eggshells" gait or a bad, distinctive odor to hooves.
Unsteady, drunken like gait, circling or stiff sawhorse like stance.
Unable to stand, lies on side making paddling movements.
Unexplained weight loss.
Although goats are typically hardy animals, they can still be susceptible to parasites, illness and diseases. A preventative disease program should be discussed with your goat knowledgeable veterinarian.

The Importance of Quarantining New Goats

If you’re adding goats to an existing herd, you need to quarantine any new goats you purchase for at least 30 days. This means that you need an area with adequate shelter that completely separates your herd from the new goats. Quarantine protects the other goats from any unknown or undisclosed health problems that the new goats might have.

During the goats’ quarantine time, do the following:

Have them tested for CAEV or any other diseases you want to test for, unless the seller has provided you with documentation that the goat has been tested and had negative results.

Observe the goats for signs of any disease, such as soremouth lesions or abscesses.

Watch how the goats adjust to your feeding and management program.

Do a fecal analysis and deworm if necessary. If you’re unable to do a fecal analysis, routinely deworm all goats in quarantine

One particular symptom you should keep an eye out for is shipping fever. Blood tests show that a goat needs about three hours after being transported to stop having a physical stress response, but the move's effect on the goat's immune system can last longer. This immune response can, at worst, lead to shipping fever.

Shipping fever can cause pneumonia and sometimes diarrhea. Signs to look for include temperature of over 103.5° Fahrenheit, nasal discharge, coughing, rapid breathing, or rattling in the chest. Contact a veterinarian if your new goat has any of these signs.

How to Control Insects in Your Goats' Living Space

If you're new to raising goats, it may surprise you that flies, mosquitoes, and other bugs are part of raising livestock. But you do have some options for controlling these critters. The cheapest way to minimize pests is to keep the barn or goat shed dry and remove wet bedding weekly during warm or hot weather. Pay special attention to the areas around water buckets, where the flies are more likely to breed.

You can also build a bat house for the outside of the barn or on a nearby tree. Bats eat mosquitoes and other insects, and so having them around is beneficial to a farm. The only disadvantage to having bats is that they carry rabies, which a curious goat can get from inspecting a crazy-acting bat.

To discourage mosquitoes, eliminate standing water where they can breed. If you have water that continues to build up, just pour some vegetable oil on the top to stop the mosquitoes from breeding. Or you can buy a product called Mosquito Free Water from livestock supply companies; it's safe and can be sprayed on standing water.

Some people use insecticides to control flies and other pests, and you can find many of them on the market for just this purpose. But remember: the chemicals are poison and can harm you and your goats. You probably don't want insecticides in your milk or meat. Here are some non-toxic methods for controlling flies:

Fly parasites: You can buy these tiny wasps, which feed on fly larvae, from biological pest control companies and some livestock supply catalogs. You get them in regular shipments through the mail and put them out through the summer near wet areas, where flies are more likely to hatch.

Fly strips: These are inexpensive and amazingly effective. You unwind these sticky strips and hang them with tacks around the barn. When the flies land on them they get stuck. Mr. Sticky is the most effective brand.

Mr. Sticky mini roll: This product is superior to fly strips because the roll lies horizontally rather than vertically, and so flies are more likely to land on it. The mini kit is perfect for a small barn. It is an 81-foot reel that you attach to the walls across a stall and roll up as it fills with flies. You can also buy a 1,000-foot roll.

Fly trap: You can find various fly traps on the market. One is a plastic bell-shaped trap that you fill with stinky bait and hang from the ceiling. Flies are attracted to the smell, crawl in, and then can't get out. These smell bad, so you need to place them where you won't accidentally walk into one.

Citronella fly spray: Citronella spray is made for horses, but you can spray it directly on goats when they are being bothered by deer flies or horse flies that are particularly aggressive.

How to Give Your Goat an Injection

You can have a vet visit or take your goats to a clinic to receive vaccinations or other injections, and many goat owners do this. But to save the money, you can do it yourself. Giving injections is easy after you get over any fear you might have.

It can help to have an experienced person demonstrate the technique before you try it. You can also practice by injecting into an orange — just remember to dispose of your practice needles and syringes. You can get needles and syringes at a feed store, veterinary office, or livestock supply catalog.

Anaphylaxis is a severe, sudden allergic reaction. The faster it occurs, the more severe it is. If a goat unexpectedly collapses or goes into shock after an injection, administer epinephrine immediately. The dose is 0.5–1.0 cc per 100 pounds.

The two most common types of injections are subcutaneous (SQ), which is just under the skin, and intramuscular (IM), which goes into the muscle. Read the instructions that come with the medication you're using to determine what type of injection to give. Most injections that can be given IM also can be given SQ; consult with your veterinarian regarding which injections you need to give IM. Giving subcutaneous injections is a bit easier because you don't have to worry about hitting a blood vessel or vein.

When you're ready to give injections yourself, gather your supplies and bring your goat into an area away from the other goats. Have someone hold the goat and find the site where you will give the injection.

Never use the rear leg as an injection site because you can hit a nerve and make your goat lame.

The best places to give injections are the sides of the neck and "armpit" area just behind the front leg.

Gather your supplies:

Medication

Disposable needle and syringe

Alcohol and cotton balls or other wipes

Container for sharps (used needles), which you can purchase at a drug store

Before giving the injection, wipe the top of the medicine vial with alcohol to ensure that it's sterile. Then insert the needle into the bottle and withdraw the required dose of medication. Withdraw the needle and tap the syringe and push the injector slightly to push out any bubbles.

To give an SQ injection:

Lift the skin into a tent.

Insert the needle under the skin into the tent, toward the body.

Make sure that the needle isn't in the skin or muscle, or through the other side of the tent.

Inject the medication and remove the needle.

Discard the needle and syringe into your sharps container.

To give an IM injection:

Insert the needle into the muscle, being careful not to hit bone.

Withdraw the plunger slightly to make sure that you have not hit a vein or vessel.

If you see blood in the syringe, pull out the needle and start over.

Depress the plunger slowly, and then withdraw the needle.

Rub the injection area gently but firmly to distribute the medication.

Discard the needle and syringe into your sharps container.

Never use the same needle or syringe for different medications or on different goats. Mixing medications can make them less effective or cause an unexpected chemical reaction; sharing needles can spread diseases from one goat to another.

5 Incredibly Intelligent Animals

1. Octopus

Octopuses are considered the most intelligent of all invertebrates, and are even smarter than most other species on the planet. They have both short and long-term memory, they can navigate mazes and escape from aquariums, and they have even been known to sneak aboard fishing boats, pry open holds and gorge on captured crabs. It’s very tough to keep octopuses as pets due to their problem-solving skills and their ability to squeeze through openings no bigger than their eyeballs.

2. Elephants

Humans have been domesticating and training elephants for the last four thousand years. Their intelligence, coupled with their strength, has been put to use in construction, war, and under the big top as entertainment. The extremely sad fact is that if elephant poaching continues at its current rate, African elephants could be extinct in less than fifteen years. 

3. Crows

A member of the highly intelligent bird family known as corvids, crows have often proven themselves just as clever as chimps and gorillas. Not only are their brains about the same size as some primates, but they share many behavioural similarities: using tools to get food, retaining memories, and anticipating future events to help them solve problems.

4. Pigs

We are quick to reward the dog when he rolls over on command, yet we’ll cringe at the sight of a pig rolling in filth. But pigs are, in fact, the smarter of the two species. Pigs can be taught the meaning of certain words and phrases, and, after years without hearing them, will still remember what those meanings are. Mothers sing to their young while they’re nursing, pigs learn from the mistakes of other pigs, and they can play videogames too complex for 3-year old children. 

5. Chimpanzees

Before Jane Goodall discovered that chimpanzees use sticks to dig and fish out delicious termites, it was believed that only humans wore the tool belt in the animal kingdom. But not only do chimpanzees use tools for food, they can also fashion weapons for hunting.

Chimpanzees live in highly organized hierarchal societies, can appreciate a beautiful sunset, will mourn the death of a loved one, and can not only learn sign language but pass it along to others.

10 REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD EAT RABBIT MEAT!

Back in the 1940s and 1950s rabbit meat was as common for dinner as chicken is today. It is the meat they got many people and their children through the lean times of the Depression. They lost their popularity after Big AGRA, who wanted to get maximum profits with the cheapest bottom line using the government endorse chemicals and handouts. Because of this rabbits didn’t make sense. So why even eat rabbit meat now? Below you will find a few reasons why you should consider adding rabbit meat to your diet. Raise some rabbits in your lots, yards, or pastures. Become closer to your food supply know what you eat!

1. It is one of the best white meats available on the market today.

2. The meat has a high percentage of easily digestible protein.

3. It contains the least amount of fat among all the other available meets.

4. Rabbit meat contains less calorie value than other meats.

5. Rabbit meat is almost cholesterol free and therefore heart patient friendly.

6. The sodium content of rabbit meat is comparatively less than other meats.

7. The calcium and phosphorus contents of this meat or more than any other meats.

8. The ratio of me to bone is high meaning there is more edible meat on the carcass than even a chicken.

9. Rabbit meat with the many health benefits does not have a strong flavor and is comparable to chicken but not identical.

10. Rabbits are one of the most productive domestic livestock animal there is. Rabbits can produce 6 pounds of meat on the same feed and water as the cow will produce 1 pound of meat on the same feed and water.

So as you can see there are many health benefits to eating rabbit meat. It is healthy for you and cheap to produce. Why not try to incorporate some rabbit meat into your diet today! Try it you’ll like it! Use rabbit as a replacment for chicken in any chicken recipe.

Top 11 Reasons to Raise Rabbits

People from all around the world have chosen to raise domestic rabbits for a multitude of different reasons. Here is a list of 11 reasons why you should consider raising rabbits…

1. Rabbits are Low Maintenance- One of the best things that I like about rabbits is the fact that they are relatively low maintenance animals.

2. Rabbits are Quiet- Yes I said it, rabbits are actually one of the quietest types of animals on the planet

3. Economical- Breeding rabbits can indeed be economical, even extremely profitable if you put forth the time and dedication

4. Rabbits can indeed “Multiply like Rabbits”- Although struggling breeders will sometimes tell you different, rabbits can indeed multiple like rabbits

5. Rabbit Meat is Healthy- Even if you never plan on eating rabbit meat yourself, if you breed rabbits you can rest assured that there is a market for rabbit meat in case you need to sell off stock or culls

6. Rabbit Manure is Valuable- Believe me when I say that rabbit manure works great as a fertilizer! Apply it to your garden and watch your plants bloom or bag it up and earn a little spending money off of it.

7. Rabbits Can Make Great Pets- Rabbits can indeed make great pets- just make sure you choose the right breed or you might be disappointed!

8. Self Fulfilling- When you successfully breed rabbits you will most likely begin to feel self-fulfillment in your accomplishment (There is something about watching your rabbits grow that gives you a good feeling inside)

9. Chance at Showing- If you plan on showing rabbits, you will most likely have a great time and make some new friends!

10. Great Learning Experience- It would literally take an entire book to tell you about everything I have learned from raising rabbits!

11. Raising Rabbits is Fun- Most importantly raising rabbits can be a fun enjoyable experience as long as you do your research ahead of time.

Saving the Spanish donkey

In popular culture the humble donkey is as emblematic of Spain as a bull or a flamenco dancer.  From the sublime little fat Sancho Panza riding alongside Don Quijote, to the ridiculous straw donkeys sold in tourist shops, this beast of burden has become folkloric in its symbolisation of all that is Spanish. So it is shocking to learn that of the six species native to Spain every single one is in danger of extinction. The Córdoban is the largest and there are less than 100 pure bred ones remaining.

The working donkey or mule (the offspring of a mare and donkey) is an increasingly rare sight in Spain, although it is still seen in parts of rural Andalucía and Galicia. At the end of the civil war (1939) there were an estimated 1,250,000 donkeys in the country but the figure is now down to just 65,000.

Intelligent, cautious, friendly, playful, and eager to learn, they have been used since before recorded history to carry loads, pull carts and take riders. Donkeys have a reputation for stubbornness but studies now show that this is in fact a highly developed sense of self preservation.  It is almost impossible to force a donkey into doing something that is against its best interests.  A horse, for example will walk along a path where the footing is unsafe; a donkey will not.  Though slower than horses they live longer and are cheaper to keep.  Their great endurance and agility has made them popular work animals and in many developing countries they are still of vital economic importance.

Donkeys were among the pack animals used to carry silk from the Pacific Ocean to the Mediterranean along the 'Silk Road' in return for trade goods. The overland route was approximately 6,400 kilometres and the journey lasted several years. Because of the length of the expedition, no single animal completed the entire journey and mixing of breeds occurred as unplanned matings occurred en-route. The journey ended in Greece, Italy, the Middle East and Alexandria in Egypt. The Greeks were delighted with the donkeys, which were found to be ideal animals for working on the narrow paths between the vines.

Their use in vineyards spread through the Mediterranean countries to Spain where they quickly also became the principle means of transport for people and goods. Their surefootedness and fortitude made them the ideal animal for Spain’s inhospitable terrain.  From the departure of the Romans to the turn of the last century few roads were built in Spain and even the main routes were in a poor state.  Donkey trains over precarious, muddy and rocky tracks were the mainstay of the avenues between cities, towns and villages.  They laboured on building sites, were taken to battlefields to carry supplies and drag guns for the army, they turned mills and having worked the land they carried the produce to market.

But apart from some rural areas in Spain this ubiquitous symbol of toil has all but disappeared and its decline has been caused mainly by the mechanisation of agriculture and the gradual abandonment of the rural way of life.   Young people are seduced by towns and cities and the way of life that continued right up until the 1960s has rapidly waned.

Although to northern Europeans the donkey is looked upon as not only cuddly but worthy of our respect, the Spanish are not nearly so sentimental.  The donkey has traditionally been an object of scorn in folklore and there are countless Spanish phrases that define the burro as a slow, stupid and stubborn animal. Modern Spanish dictionaries give a second definition of burro as: ‘idiot’, ‘oaf’, ‘stupid’. Despite the fact that the cross on the donkey’s back is supposed to be a holy mark in recognition of a donkey carrying Jesus into Nazareth you get the feeling that the beast hasn’t quite been forgiven by fiercely Catholic Spain for delivering the Saviour to his fate.

Where donkeys are still used as working animals their treatment can give cause for concern and the older animals are frequently turned out to fend for themselves. Over the last decade, sanctuaries have been opened in Spain to preserve and rescue breeds that are in danger of extinction.

As you might expect where animals are concerned, the British are keen to help, with popular registered charity the Donkey Sanctuary opening its first European sanctuary in Spain, near Malaga. El Refugio del Burrito aims to provide permanent refuge to any donkey or mule in need of sanctuary. The replacement of traditional working donkeys with machinery resulted in the abandonment of many donkeys that had already been neglected.  Latest figures suggest there are around 140,000 donkeys and mules in Spain.  Run by Director of European Operations, Paul Svendsen, the son of Dr Elisabeth Svendsen who founded the Donkey Sanctuary in 1969 who has been encouraged by the good response from the Spanish authorities and believes it is the right time to start working in Spain.

"I believe animal welfare in Spain is beginning to improve. We saw legislation introduced in 2003 enforcing the protection of animals used during festivals in the region of Extremadura. With El Refugio Del Burrito registered as a Spanish association we can now lobby for further improvements in legislation for donkeys and mules throughout the country.”

The Sanctuary’s most famous rescue was ‘Blackie’ a donkey that was earmarked to take part in the "Pero Palo" Fiesta  in Extremadura’s Villa Nueva de la Vera on Shrove Tuesday when the animal is jostled and dragged through the village by a partially drunken crowd. Fed alcohol and sat on by the heaviest man in the village the animal usually collapses and dies. Blackie was taken to the Sanctuary in Devon to end her years and Extremadura banned the fiesta.

El Refugio is particularly keen to preserve the Andalucian Giant Donkey, one of the most ancient breeds of European donkeys with Jacks (males) reaching as high as 16 hands (1.6m), which is as tall as a large horse. These are pure breed donkeys, not mules but a recent study suggests that there are as few as 120 of these amazing giants left making them a seriously endangered indigenous species. Traditionally these giant donkeys have always been found in Southern Spain, where formerly they were used extensively by the military, to cross breed with horses, producing a very strong mule, well suited to carrying munitions and provisions.  They have been almost totally replaced in both these areas of work by mechanisation.

Because of this mechanisation, these donkeys become a liability and together with many other donkeys of pure and cross breeds, are often collected together by dealers and shipped, under often quite horrendous conditions, with few stops and little water and food, to other European countries, where they are slaughtered and may be used as a prized ingredient in some salamis.

They were also employed in the cork forests, olive and citrus groves, and carrying out almost any heavy work, including ploughing, pulling carts and for riding

In 1989 Pascual Rovira set up the ‘Asociación para la Defensa del Borrico’ (ADEBO) in the little town of Rute, in the heart of the lovely Parque de la Sierra sub-Bética His efforts to publicise the plight of the donkey have already gone a long way towards putting Rute on the map. Pascual has donated donkeys as gifts to the Spanish royal family and even to Bill Clinton to raise awareness about the animals. More than a hundred donkeys have been rescued from all over Spain and there are representatives of most of the national breeds.

Bee Hummingbird

The Bee Hummingbird (Mellisuga helenae) is the #smallest #bird and the smallest #warm-blooded vertebrate. It is also known as #Cuban #bee as it is found mostly in Cuba. It measures 5.7cm in length and 1.8g in weight. 

The Bee Hummingbird is said to eat half its total body mass and drink eight times its total body mass each day. We cannot see its wings while flying as it flaps its wings 90 times per second. 

The heartbeat of this #bird is 1,260 times. The size of its nest measures 2cm wide and 3cm deep. Its #eggs are smaller than coffee grounds.