Tips For Growing Cucumbers

Cucumbers are great for pickling, tossing in salads, or eating straight off the vine.

Types of Cucumbers

There are two types of cucumbers: slicing and pickling. Each type comes in several different varieties. The slicing types are long and usually grow to about 6 or 8 inches in length while the pickling types are shorter, reaching around 3 to 4 inches once mature.

There are now many bush or compact varieties of cucumbers available that are ideal for growing in limited space.

Starting Cucumbers

Cucumbers can be started indoors in peat pots or small flats and transplanted to the garden a couple weeks thereafter but only when all danger of frost has passed. Before you move them to the garden, however, harden the cucumber plants off in a protected location to lessen any stress that may occur during transplanting. During cool periods, cucumbers can be covered with plant protectors as well.

Where to Plant Cucumbers

Cucumbers like warm, humid weather; loose, organic soil; and plenty of sunlight. They grow well in most regions of the United States and do especially well in the South.

When planting cucumbers, choose a site that has adequate drainage and fertile soil. Good soil will have plenty of organic matter, such as compost. Adding compost to the soil will help get your cucumbers off to a good start, and applying an organic fertilizer, such as manure, will help give the plants nutrients during growth. When you begin preparing the soil, remove any rocks, sticks or other debris and then mix ample amounts of organic matter and fertilizer into the soil.

Cucumbers may be planted in hills or rows about 1 inch deep and thinned as needed. Since cucumbers are a vine crop, they usually require a lot of space. In large gardens, cucumber vines may spread throughout rows; within smaller gardens, cucumbers may be trained for climbing on a fence or trellis. Training cucumbers on a fence or trellis will reduce space and lift the fruit off the soil. This method also can provide your garden with a neater appearance. The bush or compact varieties are quite suitable for growing in small spaces or even in containers.

Symptoms of a Sick Goat

In order to be able to recognize when a goat is sick, the owner must closely observe their herd when they are healthy. The average healthy goat is alert and curious. They show interest in food and chew their cud after feeding. Their eyes are bright and clear and their nose is dry. Their coat is shiny and clean and in good weather their tail is up. Their droppings are firm and pelleted and their gait is energetic and steady. They will have a temperature between 101.5 and 103.5, keeping the outside weather conditions in mind.

Through daily observation the goat owner will learn what is normal for the individuals in their herd and will be able to quickly spot a goat that just isn’t acting right, one that may be sick. Early assessment and action greatly increases the chances of a successful outcome to treatment.

Some warning signs of a goat that may be sick or need medical attention are:
A goat that separates itself from the rest of the herd.
Standing with its head and tail down, with a hunched back.
Trembling, muscle twitching or head shaking.
A goat that is anxious or weak, listless or reluctant to move.
Poor appetite, won't eat or won't drink.
Change in consistancy or color of feces, scouring (diarrhea) or tapeworm segments.
Strains to urinate, unable to urinate, or blood in the urine.
Fever (above 103.5) or subnormal temperature. (below 101.5)
Moans or cries.
Grinding teeth, signs of pain.
Bloated, kicking or biting at stomach.
Enlarged knees or recuring abscesses.
Rapid, shallow breathing.
Chronic cough or sweet smell to breath.
Cloudy or green nasal discharge.
Cloudy, watery, closed eyes or a discharge from them.
Dull, scruffy coat, sores, scabs or other skin problems.
Excessive rubbing, scratching or biting at lower legs.
Soft swelling under face (bottlejaw), white gums and inner eyelids.
Abnormal color or consistency of milk.
Hot, lumpy or hard udder.
Limping, tender "walking on eggshells" gait or a bad, distinctive odor to hooves.
Unsteady, drunken like gait, circling or stiff sawhorse like stance.
Unable to stand, lies on side making paddling movements.
Unexplained weight loss.
Although goats are typically hardy animals, they can still be susceptible to parasites, illness and diseases. A preventative disease program should be discussed with your goat knowledgeable veterinarian.

The Importance of Quarantining New Goats

If you’re adding goats to an existing herd, you need to quarantine any new goats you purchase for at least 30 days. This means that you need an area with adequate shelter that completely separates your herd from the new goats. Quarantine protects the other goats from any unknown or undisclosed health problems that the new goats might have.

During the goats’ quarantine time, do the following:

Have them tested for CAEV or any other diseases you want to test for, unless the seller has provided you with documentation that the goat has been tested and had negative results.

Observe the goats for signs of any disease, such as soremouth lesions or abscesses.

Watch how the goats adjust to your feeding and management program.

Do a fecal analysis and deworm if necessary. If you’re unable to do a fecal analysis, routinely deworm all goats in quarantine

One particular symptom you should keep an eye out for is shipping fever. Blood tests show that a goat needs about three hours after being transported to stop having a physical stress response, but the move's effect on the goat's immune system can last longer. This immune response can, at worst, lead to shipping fever.

Shipping fever can cause pneumonia and sometimes diarrhea. Signs to look for include temperature of over 103.5° Fahrenheit, nasal discharge, coughing, rapid breathing, or rattling in the chest. Contact a veterinarian if your new goat has any of these signs.

How to Control Insects in Your Goats' Living Space

If you're new to raising goats, it may surprise you that flies, mosquitoes, and other bugs are part of raising livestock. But you do have some options for controlling these critters. The cheapest way to minimize pests is to keep the barn or goat shed dry and remove wet bedding weekly during warm or hot weather. Pay special attention to the areas around water buckets, where the flies are more likely to breed.

You can also build a bat house for the outside of the barn or on a nearby tree. Bats eat mosquitoes and other insects, and so having them around is beneficial to a farm. The only disadvantage to having bats is that they carry rabies, which a curious goat can get from inspecting a crazy-acting bat.

To discourage mosquitoes, eliminate standing water where they can breed. If you have water that continues to build up, just pour some vegetable oil on the top to stop the mosquitoes from breeding. Or you can buy a product called Mosquito Free Water from livestock supply companies; it's safe and can be sprayed on standing water.

Some people use insecticides to control flies and other pests, and you can find many of them on the market for just this purpose. But remember: the chemicals are poison and can harm you and your goats. You probably don't want insecticides in your milk or meat. Here are some non-toxic methods for controlling flies:

Fly parasites: You can buy these tiny wasps, which feed on fly larvae, from biological pest control companies and some livestock supply catalogs. You get them in regular shipments through the mail and put them out through the summer near wet areas, where flies are more likely to hatch.

Fly strips: These are inexpensive and amazingly effective. You unwind these sticky strips and hang them with tacks around the barn. When the flies land on them they get stuck. Mr. Sticky is the most effective brand.

Mr. Sticky mini roll: This product is superior to fly strips because the roll lies horizontally rather than vertically, and so flies are more likely to land on it. The mini kit is perfect for a small barn. It is an 81-foot reel that you attach to the walls across a stall and roll up as it fills with flies. You can also buy a 1,000-foot roll.

Fly trap: You can find various fly traps on the market. One is a plastic bell-shaped trap that you fill with stinky bait and hang from the ceiling. Flies are attracted to the smell, crawl in, and then can't get out. These smell bad, so you need to place them where you won't accidentally walk into one.

Citronella fly spray: Citronella spray is made for horses, but you can spray it directly on goats when they are being bothered by deer flies or horse flies that are particularly aggressive.

How to Give Your Goat an Injection

You can have a vet visit or take your goats to a clinic to receive vaccinations or other injections, and many goat owners do this. But to save the money, you can do it yourself. Giving injections is easy after you get over any fear you might have.

It can help to have an experienced person demonstrate the technique before you try it. You can also practice by injecting into an orange — just remember to dispose of your practice needles and syringes. You can get needles and syringes at a feed store, veterinary office, or livestock supply catalog.

Anaphylaxis is a severe, sudden allergic reaction. The faster it occurs, the more severe it is. If a goat unexpectedly collapses or goes into shock after an injection, administer epinephrine immediately. The dose is 0.5–1.0 cc per 100 pounds.

The two most common types of injections are subcutaneous (SQ), which is just under the skin, and intramuscular (IM), which goes into the muscle. Read the instructions that come with the medication you're using to determine what type of injection to give. Most injections that can be given IM also can be given SQ; consult with your veterinarian regarding which injections you need to give IM. Giving subcutaneous injections is a bit easier because you don't have to worry about hitting a blood vessel or vein.

When you're ready to give injections yourself, gather your supplies and bring your goat into an area away from the other goats. Have someone hold the goat and find the site where you will give the injection.

Never use the rear leg as an injection site because you can hit a nerve and make your goat lame.

The best places to give injections are the sides of the neck and "armpit" area just behind the front leg.

Gather your supplies:

Medication

Disposable needle and syringe

Alcohol and cotton balls or other wipes

Container for sharps (used needles), which you can purchase at a drug store

Before giving the injection, wipe the top of the medicine vial with alcohol to ensure that it's sterile. Then insert the needle into the bottle and withdraw the required dose of medication. Withdraw the needle and tap the syringe and push the injector slightly to push out any bubbles.

To give an SQ injection:

Lift the skin into a tent.

Insert the needle under the skin into the tent, toward the body.

Make sure that the needle isn't in the skin or muscle, or through the other side of the tent.

Inject the medication and remove the needle.

Discard the needle and syringe into your sharps container.

To give an IM injection:

Insert the needle into the muscle, being careful not to hit bone.

Withdraw the plunger slightly to make sure that you have not hit a vein or vessel.

If you see blood in the syringe, pull out the needle and start over.

Depress the plunger slowly, and then withdraw the needle.

Rub the injection area gently but firmly to distribute the medication.

Discard the needle and syringe into your sharps container.

Never use the same needle or syringe for different medications or on different goats. Mixing medications can make them less effective or cause an unexpected chemical reaction; sharing needles can spread diseases from one goat to another.

5 Incredibly Intelligent Animals

1. Octopus

Octopuses are considered the most intelligent of all invertebrates, and are even smarter than most other species on the planet. They have both short and long-term memory, they can navigate mazes and escape from aquariums, and they have even been known to sneak aboard fishing boats, pry open holds and gorge on captured crabs. It’s very tough to keep octopuses as pets due to their problem-solving skills and their ability to squeeze through openings no bigger than their eyeballs.

2. Elephants

Humans have been domesticating and training elephants for the last four thousand years. Their intelligence, coupled with their strength, has been put to use in construction, war, and under the big top as entertainment. The extremely sad fact is that if elephant poaching continues at its current rate, African elephants could be extinct in less than fifteen years. 

3. Crows

A member of the highly intelligent bird family known as corvids, crows have often proven themselves just as clever as chimps and gorillas. Not only are their brains about the same size as some primates, but they share many behavioural similarities: using tools to get food, retaining memories, and anticipating future events to help them solve problems.

4. Pigs

We are quick to reward the dog when he rolls over on command, yet we’ll cringe at the sight of a pig rolling in filth. But pigs are, in fact, the smarter of the two species. Pigs can be taught the meaning of certain words and phrases, and, after years without hearing them, will still remember what those meanings are. Mothers sing to their young while they’re nursing, pigs learn from the mistakes of other pigs, and they can play videogames too complex for 3-year old children. 

5. Chimpanzees

Before Jane Goodall discovered that chimpanzees use sticks to dig and fish out delicious termites, it was believed that only humans wore the tool belt in the animal kingdom. But not only do chimpanzees use tools for food, they can also fashion weapons for hunting.

Chimpanzees live in highly organized hierarchal societies, can appreciate a beautiful sunset, will mourn the death of a loved one, and can not only learn sign language but pass it along to others.

10 REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD EAT RABBIT MEAT!

Back in the 1940s and 1950s rabbit meat was as common for dinner as chicken is today. It is the meat they got many people and their children through the lean times of the Depression. They lost their popularity after Big AGRA, who wanted to get maximum profits with the cheapest bottom line using the government endorse chemicals and handouts. Because of this rabbits didn’t make sense. So why even eat rabbit meat now? Below you will find a few reasons why you should consider adding rabbit meat to your diet. Raise some rabbits in your lots, yards, or pastures. Become closer to your food supply know what you eat!

1. It is one of the best white meats available on the market today.

2. The meat has a high percentage of easily digestible protein.

3. It contains the least amount of fat among all the other available meets.

4. Rabbit meat contains less calorie value than other meats.

5. Rabbit meat is almost cholesterol free and therefore heart patient friendly.

6. The sodium content of rabbit meat is comparatively less than other meats.

7. The calcium and phosphorus contents of this meat or more than any other meats.

8. The ratio of me to bone is high meaning there is more edible meat on the carcass than even a chicken.

9. Rabbit meat with the many health benefits does not have a strong flavor and is comparable to chicken but not identical.

10. Rabbits are one of the most productive domestic livestock animal there is. Rabbits can produce 6 pounds of meat on the same feed and water as the cow will produce 1 pound of meat on the same feed and water.

So as you can see there are many health benefits to eating rabbit meat. It is healthy for you and cheap to produce. Why not try to incorporate some rabbit meat into your diet today! Try it you’ll like it! Use rabbit as a replacment for chicken in any chicken recipe.