Tuesday, March 31, 2015

How to Grow Tomatoes

Planting
If you're planting seeds (versus purchasing transplants), you'll want to start your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date.
Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. For northern regions, is is VERY important that your site receives at least 6 hours of sun. For souther regions, light afternoon shade will help tomatoes survive and thrive.
Two weeks before transplanting seedlings outdoors, till soil to about 1 foot and mix in aged manure, compost, or fertilizer.
Harden off transplants for a week before moving outdoors.
Transplant after last spring frost when the soil is warm. See our Best Planting Dates for Transplants for your region.
Establish stakes or cages in the soil at the time of planting. Staking keeps developing fruit off the ground, while caging let’s the plant hold itself upright. Some sort of support system is recommended, but sprawling can also produce fine crops if you have the space, and if the weather cooperates.
Plant seedlings two feet apart.
Pinch off a few of the lower branches on transplants, and plant the root ball deep enough so that the remaining lowest leaves are just above the surface of the soil.
Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Care
Water generously for the first few days.
Water well throughout growing season, about 2 inches per week during the summer. Keep watering consistent!
Mulch five weeks after transplanting to retain moisture.
To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks pull up water from under the ground and keep it from evaporating into the atmosphere.
Fertilize two weeks prior to first picking and again two weeks after first picking.
If using stakes, prune plants by pinching off suckers so that only a couple stems are growing per stake.
Practice crop rotation from year to year to prevent diseases that may have over wintered.

Harvest/Storage
Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag with the stem up and store them in a cool, dark place.
Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
The perfect tomato for picking will be firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. A ripe tomato will be only slightly soft.
If your tomato plant still has fruit when the first hard frost threatens, pull up the entire plant and hang it upside down in the basement or garage. Pick tomatoes as they redden.
Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that make up that garden tomato taste.
To freeze, core fresh unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they defrost.

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

How to grow parisian carrots

Mini round carrots, or Parisian carrots, produce small round roots that aren't much larger than a small radish. These specialty carrots are especially well-suited for container gardens or growing in shallow, rocky beds where larger carrots can't develop straight roots. Mini carrots require the same planting and care as more traditional varieties. They thrive in moist soil in locations that receive six or more hours of sunlight. Plant carrots in spring or fall when soil temperatures will remain above 40 degrees Fahrenheit during the growing season.

1. Sprinkle 1 cup of 16-16-8 blend fertilizer over every 50 square feet of bed. Spread 1 inch of compost on top of the fertilizer. Till the compost and fertilizer into the top 8 inches of soil. Remove any rocks or roots from the topsoil as you till so they don't inhibit the carrot root formation.

2. Water the prepared soil until it's evenly moist to a 6-inch depth. Sprinkle the carrot seeds on top of the soil in rows set 12 to 18 inches apart, sowing about two seeds per 1 inch of row. Cover the seeds with a 1/4-inch layer of soil.

3. Mist the soil daily with a fine spray of water so the soil surface doesn't dry before the seeds germinate. Carrots take one to three weeks to germinate.

4. Thin the carrot seedlings once the plants grow 2 to 4 inches tall. Pluck out the excess seedlings so the remaining carrots are spaced 2 to 3 inches apart in the row.

5. Cover the soil with 1 inch of straw mulch after thinning to help retain moisture, prevent weeds, and to protect the top of the developing carrots from sun exposure. Pull any weeds that grow in the bed promptly so they don't inhibit root formation.

6. Water the carrots once or twice weekly. Supply about 1 inch of water at each irrigation so the top 6 inches of soil remains moist. Don't allow the soil to dry completely between watering.

7. Brush the soil back from the top of the mini round carrots about 60 days after germination to determine their maturity. Harvest the carrots when the top of the roots develop a full orange or orange-red color, depending on the variety, and the carrots measure 2 to 3 inches in diameter.