10 Exotic & Bizarre Breeds Of Chickens

Chickens can be really amusing creatures to have running around a garden or yard. They are always busy doing something or other, chasing flies or scratching at the dirt. But they are creatures of habit and have their set routines, when to chase about, when to have a sand bath, when to sprawl out in the sunshine and when to just sit on a perch and kick back watching the world go by.

Most people have seen photos of the chickens that supply us with our eggs, but have you ever heard of or seen a Faverolle or maybe a Booted Bantam? Below are 10 exotic and sometimes bizarre looking breeds you may never have seen or  even heard of:

The Funny Face Faverolle

These adorable looking chickens have gorgeous puffy beards and tufts on the sides of their faces, reminiscent of Father Christmas. In fact, the festive song, the 12 days of Christmas makes a reference to three French hens which just happen to be the delightful Faverolles.

The chickens are native to France, and they are extremely cute looking with their beards, muffs and feathered feet that boast five toes on each foot, much like another breed called the Silkie. Today, the Faverolle is often favoured by people who love to exhibit their birds and you can spot them at many a poultry or large agricultural show.

The Amusing Silkie

Silkies are lovely if a little strange looking creatures. They are well known for their extremely docile temperament. It's thought these chickens originally came from China or other Asian countries and it's a pretty unique breed. It draws its name from its very distinctive plumage which feels just like silk. Silkies also boast strange dark blue coloured skin and earlobes – their bones are the same colour too! Like the Faverolle, Silkies boast five toes on their feet!

The Fluffy Sultan

This amazing breed of chicken is literally covered from head to toe in feathers – with extremely long ones on their feet! The breed originates from Turkey and have always been considered as an ornamental bird. In days long ago, these great looking chickens were kept by Ottoman sultans in their gardens. Today, the breed is kept very much for the same reason, which is as ornamental show birds.

The Frizzy Frizzle

These curly feathered chickens are really amazing to look at. Their feathers curl away from their bodies. Some chicken fanciers consider this a totally unique breed although some other breeds of chickens can boast curly feathers too but none so striking and unique as the Frizzle!

The Trendy Booted Bantam

When you first see this breed of chicken, there doesn't seem to be anything very unusual about them. Then you look a little closer and you suddenly notice their feet! These are covered in long feathers, hence the name Booted. The feathers on their feet are extravagant to say the least, but they are also on the bird's hocks too! They are lovely looking chickens with a gorgeous coloured plumage.

The Very Elegant “La Fleche”

In France there are many lovely breeds of chickens and none so elegant than the “La Fleche”. The breed is very rare today with numbers slowly on the increase due to the dedication of several poultry fanciers both in France and elsewhere in the world. The main characteristic of the chicken is its rather unusual shaped comb which is in the very distinct shape of a V.

The Odd Ball Polish

This breed is truly extraordinary to look at with its massive feathered crest, it virtually covers the whole of the bird's head! The breed is primarily bred as a show bird but originally, these funny looking creatures were bred and kept as egg laying chickens.

The Puff Head Appenzeller

Native to Switzerland, the home of the cuckoo clock and delicious chocolate, the Appenzeller is a remarkable looking chicken. There are two types to the breed,  namely the Spitzhauben and the Barthuhner with the first having a very distinctive V-comb while the latter is bearded and boasts a rose comb but does not have a crest. The breed has an amazing spotted plumage and is a very elegant looking bird.

The Demonic Looking Crevecoeur

This is another rare breed that originates in the Normandy town of Crevecoeur in France. The breed boasts being one of the oldest French chickens and might even be the ancestor of the La Fleche although this has not been confirmed. The birds have elegant and fine black plumage with a V-shaped comb.  They also have amusing looking large feathered crests too. One weird characteristic, is their dark blue/grey coloured legs that look very similar to plastic!

The Dainty Bearded Araucana

The Arancana are also known as the South American Rumpless chicken. They are gorgeous dainty birds that have funny little beards. They originate from Chile and boast some rather unusual characteristics which includes the fact they lay blue eggs. They also have feathered tufts around their ears and don't have rumps like other chickens – hence their name “the Rumpless chicken”.

Avocado Varieties

Bacon

Pear-shaped ovate fruit, green even when ripe.  The skin is green, thin, bright, and sensitive to damage caused by wind. Medium size to large (170-510 grams). Large seed with 61% flesh available. The taste is mediocre. It is a good pollinator for Hass. Large and upright trees used as windbreaks.

Fuerte

Pear shaped fruit with a characteristic neck, though it can vary from elongated with a long narrow neck to round with a wide and short neck. Its skin is thin, green, moderately bright, flexible texture with a somewhat grainy surface. Medium size to large (170-500 grams). Medium to large seed with 75-77% flesh available. Excellent quality flesh, tasty and nutty flavor.

Hass

Pear-shaped dark green fruit on the tree that turns purple to black when ripe. The skin has a medium to coarse, rough texture. Small to medium size (140-400 grams). The seed is medium size with 66-70% flesh. Excellent quality flesh with a rich, nutty flavor.

Lamb Hass

Variety recently introduced in Spain. The fruit is very similar to Hass but with wider shoulders and black skin at maturity. Larger fruit and matures later than Hass (June-July). It is more productive, more tolerant to winds, to high temperatures and persea mite than Hass.

Pinkerton

Pear fruit with a very long neck in temperate climates. The skin is medium thick, similar to Hass, dark green, with protruding granules and easy to peel. Medium size (230-425 grams).  Relatively small seed and 82% flesh. Its flesh has a good quality with a nutty taste.

Reed

Round fruit with medium to coarse skin, green, corky, slightly grainy and easy to peel. Medium to large size fruit (270-680 grams). The seed is medium to large with a flesh ratio of 71-72%.  Rich, nutty flavor, flesh does not blacken after cutting. It is a very productive variety.

Zutano

Fruit ovate to pyriform thin-skinned, light green, smooth, shiny and leathery. Medium size fruit (200-400 grams). The seed is medium to large with flesh ratio around 65%. Low to mediocre quality, watery texture and poor taste. In California it is widespread as a pollinator of Hass and in Spain it has also been used as windbreaks.

How to Grow Tomatoes

Planting
If you're planting seeds (versus purchasing transplants), you'll want to start your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date.
Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. For northern regions, is is VERY important that your site receives at least 6 hours of sun. For souther regions, light afternoon shade will help tomatoes survive and thrive.
Two weeks before transplanting seedlings outdoors, till soil to about 1 foot and mix in aged manure, compost, or fertilizer.
Harden off transplants for a week before moving outdoors.
Transplant after last spring frost when the soil is warm. See our Best Planting Dates for Transplants for your region.
Establish stakes or cages in the soil at the time of planting. Staking keeps developing fruit off the ground, while caging let’s the plant hold itself upright. Some sort of support system is recommended, but sprawling can also produce fine crops if you have the space, and if the weather cooperates.
Plant seedlings two feet apart.
Pinch off a few of the lower branches on transplants, and plant the root ball deep enough so that the remaining lowest leaves are just above the surface of the soil.
Water well to reduce shock to the roots.

Care
Water generously for the first few days.
Water well throughout growing season, about 2 inches per week during the summer. Keep watering consistent!
Mulch five weeks after transplanting to retain moisture.
To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks pull up water from under the ground and keep it from evaporating into the atmosphere.
Fertilize two weeks prior to first picking and again two weeks after first picking.
If using stakes, prune plants by pinching off suckers so that only a couple stems are growing per stake.
Practice crop rotation from year to year to prevent diseases that may have over wintered.

Harvest/Storage
Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag with the stem up and store them in a cool, dark place.
Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
The perfect tomato for picking will be firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. A ripe tomato will be only slightly soft.
If your tomato plant still has fruit when the first hard frost threatens, pull up the entire plant and hang it upside down in the basement or garage. Pick tomatoes as they redden.
Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that make up that garden tomato taste.
To freeze, core fresh unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they defrost.

How to grow parisian carrots

Mini round carrots, or Parisian carrots, produce small round roots that aren't much larger than a small radish. These specialty carrots are especially well-suited for container gardens or growing in shallow, rocky beds where larger carrots can't develop straight roots. Mini carrots require the same planting and care as more traditional varieties. They thrive in moist soil in locations that receive six or more hours of sunlight. Plant carrots in spring or fall when soil temperatures will remain above 40 degrees Fahrenheit during the growing season.

1. Sprinkle 1 cup of 16-16-8 blend fertilizer over every 50 square feet of bed. Spread 1 inch of compost on top of the fertilizer. Till the compost and fertilizer into the top 8 inches of soil. Remove any rocks or roots from the topsoil as you till so they don't inhibit the carrot root formation.

2. Water the prepared soil until it's evenly moist to a 6-inch depth. Sprinkle the carrot seeds on top of the soil in rows set 12 to 18 inches apart, sowing about two seeds per 1 inch of row. Cover the seeds with a 1/4-inch layer of soil.

3. Mist the soil daily with a fine spray of water so the soil surface doesn't dry before the seeds germinate. Carrots take one to three weeks to germinate.

4. Thin the carrot seedlings once the plants grow 2 to 4 inches tall. Pluck out the excess seedlings so the remaining carrots are spaced 2 to 3 inches apart in the row.

5. Cover the soil with 1 inch of straw mulch after thinning to help retain moisture, prevent weeds, and to protect the top of the developing carrots from sun exposure. Pull any weeds that grow in the bed promptly so they don't inhibit root formation.

6. Water the carrots once or twice weekly. Supply about 1 inch of water at each irrigation so the top 6 inches of soil remains moist. Don't allow the soil to dry completely between watering.

7. Brush the soil back from the top of the mini round carrots about 60 days after germination to determine their maturity. Harvest the carrots when the top of the roots develop a full orange or orange-red color, depending on the variety, and the carrots measure 2 to 3 inches in diameter.

How to Start Seeds

Starting plants from seed is a must-have skill for the small farmer. Whether you're seeding in a high tunnel or on a seed-starting shelf in your farmhouse, these basic steps are the same. Starting seeds indoors will give you more control over the varieties you want to grow and allow you to time everything perfectly. If you're growing on more than a home level, buying starts gets way too pricey. Plus, starting seeds is easy once you know how to do it.

Gather Your Equipment

You'll need a few things to start seeds indoors or in a greenhouse. Have everything set up ahead of time to make seed starting easy.

Containers. You can purchase plastic flats that can be reused year after year, although they should be cleaned in a diluted bleach solution. You can also reuse containers like egg cartons, yogurt cups, or small plastic pots. If you are using plastic cells within the flats, use smaller cells for smaller seeds/plants and larger cells for larger, fast-growing plants.

Potting mix. Seeds are ideally started in a soilless mix or a compost-based potting mix. Get something designed for seed starting.

Seeds. Not all seeds need to be started indoors or in the greenhouse. Some can be direct sowed in the soil outdoors. Generally, you'll start squash, tomatoes, peppers, and melons indoors. Herbs and flowers also can do well with being started and transplanted. Follow the guidelines for each variety.

Labels. You will definitely want to label everything clearly.

Light source and shelving. If not in a greenhouse or high tunnel, you will need to start seeds on a table or shelf with fluorescent lighting to help your plants grow. Plants need about 14 hours of direct sunlight to grow properly.

Prepare Potting Mix

Put your potting mix into a large container, and loosen it with your hands or a spade. Use water to dampen the mix while loosening. It should be moist but not soggy and there should be no dry lumps. When you pick up a handful, it should stick together fairly well, but slowly break apart.

Fill Planting Container

Fill your planting tray and cells with the mix. Pack soil in gently to reduce the air space, but not too dense. Fill to just below the lip of the tray, so water sinks down into the mix instead of flowing over the top.

Plant the Seeds

1. Make indentations in the soil for your seeds. As a general guideline, plant seeds roughly twice as deep as the diameter of the seed (or follow seed packet information). Put one to two seeds in each hole. You can always thin the weaker seedling later by pinching or snipping it at the base of the stem.

2. Cover the seeds with additional potting soil. Again, don't let soil get too close to lip of tray.

3. Water the seeds in gently, sprinkling carefully.

4. Cover each tray with a propagation dome (a clear plastic cover that usually comes with propagation trays). The propagation dome helps to hold in moisture. Remove the propagation dome once seedlings emerge. If you don't have one, drape clear plastic over whatever containers you are using.

5. Label your seedlings carefully!

Care for Your Seedlings

Keep the fluorescent lights on at least 14 hours a day.
Keep your plants warm and free of drafts. The air temperature should be between 65 and 75 degrees F. Plants like peppers and tomatoes like a little more heat, so you can use a heat mat under the tray to keep them warmer. This will also dry them out faster; water more frequently.
Moisten with a mister or sprayer as needed so the seeds don't dry out. "Moist but not wet" is the level of moisture you're looking for.
When seedlings emerge, remove the propagation dome or plastic and make sure to get them under lights.

Potting Up and Hardening Off

Once the true leaves have emerged, your seedlings can remain in their original containers, but if you know it will be a while before the garden is ready for them and they're beginning to get big, you can "pot up" your plants by moving them into a larger pot. Seedlings should be a couple of inches tall and have several sets of true leaves before potting up into three- to four-inch pots.

Once temperatures are warm enough, your hardy, healthy young plants are ready for the cooler temperatures, direct sunlight, wind and other elements of the outdoors - but first you must harden them off. The hardening off process takes three to five days. You can put them on the porch or in another shady spot for three to four hours the first day. Make sure they are protected from the wind and bring them in if temperatures dip. You can increase the number of hours and amount of sun each day. After transplanting during a cooler, shady part of an overcast or gently sunny day, water them well.

How to Choose Turkey Breeds

There are not nearly as many turkey breeds as there are chicken breeds, but there are still enough varieties of turkeys to warrant a decision about which breed or breeds of turkey you will raise as a small farmer or homesteader.

Broad-Breasted Whites

These are the "modern" turkey breed that are raised in factory farm settings across the United States. They maximize the conversion of feed to white breast meat in the shortest possible time. But this efficiency is not without problems. Broad-Breasted Whites can't walk or fly, are prone to disease, and can't reproduce without artificial insemination. They don't taste too great, either.

Heritage Turkey Breeds

So, you might be thinking, "What about a heritage breed?" If you want to go the more natural route, which most small farmers and homesteaders do, steer clear of the Broad-Breasted Whites. There are quite a few heritage turkey breeds to choose from. These are the most popular and common of the thirteen recognized heritage turkey breeds.

Bourbon Reds

Bourbon Red turkeys are noted for - yes, you guessed it - their beautiful red plumage. The "Bourbon" comes from their origin in Bourbon County, Kentucky, where they were first bred in the 1800s. They're also known for a delicious, full flavor and are considered one of the best-tasting heritage turkey breeds. Bourbon toms can get to 23 pounds and hens can reach 12 pounds.

Narragansett

Originally from Rhode Island (as you might surmise from the name), Narragansetts were the staple of the New England turkey scene before factory-farmed turkeys became the norm. Typical sizes are 18 pounds for hens and 30 pounds for toms.

Midget White

Midget Whites are a relatively new heritage breed developed in the 1960s by researchers at the University of Massachusetts. They are a cross of Royal Palm and Broad-Breasted Whites. Although small, Midget Whites are known for their deep, delicious flavor. Toms weigh 16 to 20 pounds and hens weigh 8 to 12 pounds.

Midget Whites are calm and do well raising poults. Because the hens are small, they can become good fence-jumpers.

Beltsville Small White

Developed in the 1930s, these birds are roughly the same size as the Midget Whites, but with wider breasts. They make a nice table bird but are blander than Midgets or some other heritage birds. However, they are prolific layers. Mature hens can be good sitters and hatch eggs well. They're not very social compared to other heritage breeds.

White Holland

White Hollands were, yes, originally bred in Holland. They migrated with early settlers to the colonies and were a popular meat bird in the United States in the 1800s. Toms can weigh up to 30 pounds and hens, up to 20 pounds. They are calm, good setters and mothers, but sometimes break eggs because the hens are so heavy.

Standard Bronze

One of the largest breeds of heritage turkeys, Bronzes have also been the most popular turkey variety in American history. Bronzes were originally a cross between the turkeys brought to the colonies by Europeans and the native wild turkeys they discovered in America.

The Broad-Breasted Bronze is a variation that is more commercial and most have been bred by artificial insemination since the 1960s. However, the Broad-Breasted Bronze was replaced by the Broad-Breasted White at that time because white feathers led to a cleaner-looking, more commercially acceptable turkey.

Toms can reach 25 pounds and hens can reach 16 pounds, although birds available today may be smaller than this.

Black

Sometimes called Black Spanish or Norfolk Black turkeys, this breed was domesticated from Mexican wild turkeys brought back to Europe by the first Spanish explorers who visited the New World (America). Their plumage is, obviously, black, and they have been around since the 1500s.

Royal Palm

Royal Palm turkeys were bred for their good looks: black and white plumage was all the rage, I suppose? (No, seriously, these are beautiful, striking birds.) In any case, these birds are small and don't have the commercial potential of most other heritage varieties, being mostly raised for exhibition. Still, they are suitable for home production of meat, and are active turkeys that forage extensively. They are also good flyers and control insects well. Standard weights are 16 pounds for toms and 10 pounds for hens.

Supplies You Need for Keeping Chickens

Chickens don't need many supplies to keep them happy and healthy. Chickens and other poultry are often one of the first farm animals for beginning farmers. They're easy to care for and don't require a lot of specialized attention. With these supplies, you'll have happy, healthy laying hens or meat birds. Find them at your local feed store or online.

Waterer and feeder. Check out hanging waterers and feeders; these prevent the birds from roosting on them and keep the contents free of shavings and poop. You'll need 4 hanging feeders or 300" of trough space per 100 birds. For waterers, aim for 96" of trough per 100 birds. For large numbers of birds, look into an automatic waterer system.

Feed. Feed stores sell different feeds for the various stages in chickens' lives. There will be a "chick starter," fed for varying amounts of time depending on the feed manufacturer. There is a higher-protein layer feed for laying hens. For birds raised solely for meat consumption, a "grower/broiler" and sometimes "finisher" feed is used. Organic and conventional feeds are available. You can also make your own chicken feed.

Scratch. Scratch is a combination of grains such as corn, oats, wheat and rye. There's also plain cracked corn, which chickens love. Scratch is a nice "treat" for your flock -- just scatter some on the ground and they'll scratch through it with their feet and eat it.

Grit. Some feeds have grit included, but if you feed your hens your kitchen scraps (and you should!), or even scratch grains, they'll need grit. Grit is simply small stones that the birds store in their crop to help them break down food. If your birds have access to a gravel driveway or other source of small stones or sand, you don't need to supplement with grit.

Bedding. Pine shavings, straw and hay are all potential bedding choices for your chickens. It's really a matter of personal preference, cost and availability. Some folks feel that straw or hay can encourage insects and lice to breed more than pine shavings